My Thailand Vacation: Ko Lanta

We took a quick one hour ferry from Ko Phi Phi to Ko Lanta, and someone from our resort picked us up from the main Saladan Pier. From there we were driven from the pier at the north end of the island to our resort at Bamboo Beach, about 45 minutes away, at the very southern tip of the island where there were only two other resorts. We were in heaven as soon as we stepped foot at the La Laanta Hideaway Resort, and didn’t leave much after that.

While Railay Beach was beautiful in a dramatic way with it’s towering limestone cliffs, and Ko Phi Phi was beautiful in a tropical paradise sort of way, Ko Lanta had a rugged feel that reminded me of Big Sur in California. The beach in front of our resort had the same white sand and crystal clear water as those other beaches we’d been, but something about it was different. 

The night we arrived, we had drinks in the open air beach bar, and just listened to the waves crashing on the shore as we sunk into the huge, cozy cushions of the beach bar chairs (they were really more like sofas). The sound of the waves was so loud and so peaceful.  We didn’t discover the beautiful, granite colored rocks until low tide early the next morning, when we could see why the waves were so loud as they crashed on these rocks piled up almost the entire length of the beach. 

At first I was a little disappointed that we weren’t directly in front of a swimming beach, but after laying on the lounge chairs under an umbrella for a mere 10 minutes, with the sound of the waves in front of me, I was so relaxed that I didn’t seem to care. When we got bored at the beach, we walked about 20 feet to the resort’s infinity pool, did a few lazy laps, and then watched the waves crash onto the beach some more. Then we'd stroll down the beach a bit until there was a break in the rocks for us to get in and swim.

The one time we decided to to venture out, we went on an elephant trekking adventure! We were picked up at the resort, taken about ten minutes to an elephant camp, walked up a little ramp and then asked to climb right onto the elephant’s back where there was a small, metal “bench” for two. From there, the elephant and the “driver” took us off into the jungle for an hour of laughing, clutching each other for fear we would fall off, and a constant stream of adrenaline despite the elephant’s slow and steady pace. I had no idea just how strong an elephant’s trunk could be until, halfway through our trek, the elephant starting pulling tree braches out of the ground by the roots and then tossing them every which way to the point we thought one of them might hit us. We were fine. Luckily! Lol. 

 

Once we were back on solid ground, we took some pictures with the happy, baby elephant!

A word of caution: You have to be careful if you’re going elephant trekking because a lot of these places in Thailand drug and harm the elephants in order to make more money. For example, there are some elephant camps where you can go see the elephants paint and dance and all that silly stuff, but elephants aren't made to do that sort of thing; it’s work for them and they are physically punished if they don’t comply. This is not a happy life as you might imagine, and you probably don’t want to support something like that with your money, so do some research and make sure you’re visiting a place where the elephants are treated well. 

While we loved this part of the trip, we found out we could’ve done the same thing in Chiang Mai for about a third of the price, so keep that in mind if you’re in Ko Lanta and are thinking about elephant trekking.

After that adventure, we took a short hike into the jungle to the one waterfall on the island. I wasn’t all that impressed, but the walk was really beautiful, along a river and through the lush landscape. 

The rest of our time in Ko Lanta was spent relaxing on the beach, in the pool, getting Thai massages in our room. Yep, in our room! Talk about the ultimate indulgence…we didn’t even have to go anywhere! We slept in, did yoga on the beach, napped, read on our ocean view deck, took lazy baths with the waves crashing outside, and quickly took advantage of swimming in the ocean during low tide when we could see enough to avoid the large, beautiful rocks in the otherwise white sand beach/ocean.

We are usually very active people who don’t always enjoy down time, but for some reason, we were perfectly content doing absolutely nothing in Ko Lanta. A lot of people suggested we rent mopeds and explore the island, but we really only explored our resort and the beach we were near. And you know what? It was wonderful. It was so relaxing and peaceful that I could fall asleep at any given time, which is strange because I am not a nap person. My head was so clear though and I really was able to embrace this crazy feeling of exteme relaxation in this very remote, desolate, beautiful part of the world. 

It’s usually so challenging for me to truly be “in the moment” but for this long weekend, a week into our trip, we did it, every day. We were just there, hearing the sounds of nature, watching beautiful sunsets, eating authentic Thai food, smelling the fresh saltwater lined right up to the dense jungle, feeling so relaxed it was unreal. Maybe that’s what enlightenment feels like – being so content in the moment that you aren’t striving or worrying or thinking, or doing anything really, other than just being. What a foreign concept that I wish won’t always be so foreign. 

While I was possibly gaining spiritual enlightenment (ha, maybe), my fiancé encountered some wildlife around the area. He went for a quick run on the beach one morning and saw some wild cows, which he somehow riled up to the point they stood on the beach staring at him, like (as he put it ) a Mexican standoff. He didn’t know how long they’d stand there, challenging him, so he made a run for it and (thank God) made it back safely. When he got back, I told him I’d heard some weird moo-ing like noises and he said it was because of him! Ha.

On another one of his runs, he saw some wild monkeys. He was running toward them and they all crossed the street to get away, with the big one waiting for the little ones to cross safely, like a parent might do for its children. So cute, right? Discovery Channel live ;)

So we loved Ko Lanta, and we loved our resort, and if we ever go back again we will stay there at the La Laanta Hideaway. It was such a special place nestled right into the natural habitat of the island; so relaxing, so simple, so peaceful.

Where we stayed: La Laanta Hideaway Resort


Next up on our trip: Chiang Mai

My Thailand Vacation: Ko Phi Phi

We took a quick ferry from Railay West to Ko Phi Phi, and along the way we passed what seemed like hundreds of small, lush, oddly shaped, jagged islands like something out of movie. 

We’d heard mixed reviews about Ko Phi Phi and people either seemed to love it or hate it. Some described it like an eternal college Spring break destination, and others described it as paradise in the form of desolate beaches. Luckily for us, we found both, and concluded those who hated it must not have explored the island enough because to us, there seemed to be something for everybody. 

We stayed on a beautiful stretch of beach on the border of Tonsai Bay and Yao Beach, which seemed to be a 15 minute walk from everything: the Tonsai Pier from where the ferry and most scuba trips depart, laid back Long Beach (along Loh Moo Dee Bay), the craziness and nightlife along Loh Dalam Bay. The area we stayed was quiet and relaxing and accessible to everything, which was perfect for us. Despite what some people told us about the noise and (lack of) cleanliness, I really think this island has it all and if you know what you want, you can easily find it there. Sure, you have to come by ferry, and it’s a bit chaotic, loud and very busy when you first arrive at the Tonsai Pier, but you know what they say…don’t judge a book by it’s cover…so don’t judge Ko Phi Phi by just one small part of the island! Here is a helpful map to orient yourself with the island.

After dropping off our luggage at our hotel, we headed straight for Yao Beach which was basically at our doorstep. Like Railay, the water was crystal clear and warm, and the beach was an idyllic white sand beach lined with lush trees. The view was pretty amazing as we saw those same crazy looking islands out in the distance, including the famed Phi Phi Ley, home to Maya Beach where “The Beach” was filmed back in 2000. We never saw the movie, but it’s hugely publicized there and we even saw maps with Leonardo DiCaprio’s face as a milestone marker!!

We then took off to explore the island, as it was much, much larger than Railay Beach. There are so many “neighborhoods” there and we definitely didn’t see them all as many of them you can only get to by boat. We did venture into the crazy “downtown” area which was flooded with 20-something tourists and backpackers. That area felt like it could’ve been any young city, with back to back restaurants, bars, shops, and men asking if you want to eat at their restaurant as you look at the menu outside, just like in Europe. We walked through this area to get to the beach along Lo Dalam Bay, and it was probably the craziest beach I’ve ever seen. 

If you’re in your 20’s and you want a party atmosphere…go here. If you don’t want noise and young people running around drunk, definitely stay somewhere else. The beach was littered with bars, blaring music, and tons of people. You can’t easily lay out at this beach as the bars have chairs set out for customers only, so we basically walked through, relaxed to watch the sunset, and were on our way. We had dinner at one of the many restaurants offering Thai food, pizza, and more varied, slightly touristy food. We stopped on our way back to our hotel to view one of those fire shows that were seemingly everywhere, consisting of a young boy twirling a stick of fire in all directions, throwing it in the air, sometimes dropping it…pretty entertaining…more so with a drink in your hand at a beach bar.

In addition to exploring the island, we went scuba diving! This was initially the reason I put Thailand on my bucket list back in 2005…Ko Phi Phi is one of the top five dive spots in the world, and for good reason. Despite friends telling me to skip this island, I knew I had to go, if for nothing more than the diving. There are hundreds of dive shops to choose from on Phi Phi, and I’d done some research before our trip and found this little independently-owned, environmentally friendly shop called Blue View Divers. The were so nice, easy to work with, and let my fiance come along as a snorkeler for super cheap.

We met them at the Tonsai Pier and left for Maya Bay, the first of our two dive spots. It was really nice to be at Maya Bay for something other than the beach, because as the morning went on, there were way too many boats and tourists there for my taste! A lot of people do day trips from Phuket out to Maya Beach so if you want to go, definitely go early in the morning or around sunset when the day trippers aren’t there. The diving was pretty incredible. The first thing we saw was a black tip reef shark. Luckily they only eat fish and plankton because they looked like sharks (the kind that eat people) to me! We desceneded into the water and it was so clear and warm, and there were bright schools of fish everywhere, not to mention beautiful coral, clown fish, and so many fish that I can’t begin to list them all here. 

Our next dive spot was to Ko Bida Nok, just next to Phi Phi Ley. The diving here was even more incredible, probably the best diving I’ve ever experienced (my previous favorites include Belize and Lana’I, Hawaii). My favorite part was when the dive master motioned for us to literally swim through a school of fish, and on the other side we discovered a small cave. We swam along with the fish and came out the other side and it was awesome. My writing probably doesn’t do it justice, but I understand why Phi Phi is one of the top dive spots in the world and highly, highly recommend checking it out if you are a diver! I never can get over how cool it is to experience life at the bottom of the ocean. It’s so quiet and serene when all you can hear is your own breathing, and you’re focused enough on your surroundings that you can’t possibly be thinking about anything else. In that way, it’s very meditative and peaceful and I just love that.

After an eventful day of diving, we headed out for a short walk to Long Beach. This was my fiance’s favorite beach of our entire trip. It is a long stretch of beach, as the name implies, along Loh Moo Dee Bay, and feels very isolated and laid back. You can take a boat there, or you can walk for about 10-15 minutes (from our hotel) along a somewhat uneven dirt path. During the day it was fine, but I wouldn’t recommend doing this walk at night as there wasn’t any light; it’s literally a dirt path around some of the local housing (shacks). There were far fewer people at Long Beach, and better yet, fewer boats humming around. There were also very few restaurants/bars, so again, we liked it but it depends on what you’re looking for. This was like a 180 from Loh Dalam Bay and we loved the diversity on the island. We stayed at Long Beach for hours, just relaxing on the beach, swimming, and walking down the beautiful white sand beach. 

The next day, our last partial day before we left on the ferry, I walked up to the “View Point” which takes you up hundreds of very steep stairs to one of the highest points on the island, offering a panoramic view. I went in the morning, but I definitely recommend coming here to watch the sunset, as the high walls of the island actually block the sunset from most beaches on Phi Phi Don, but here you will actually be able to see the sun itself. We loved the View Point and it was a nice little workout to the top. The flat stroll (or run) through the middle of the island and then up tons of stairs definitely provides some quick and intense exercise (especially in the thick humidity!) for those looking for activity, as we always are. Bring some cash with you though – it was 20 TB to get in – this helps them maintain the area. It feels like a tropical garden at the top, with absolutely magnificent views of the island and ocean below. Definitely check this out while you’re there!

Where we stayed: Phi Phi Villa Resort

We loved it here and I really don't know why it only got 2.5 starts on Trip Advisor. We found it to be clean, the people friendly and helpful, the grounds beautiful and the location perfect. 

Favorite Restaurant: Pappaya

Favorite Beach: Long Beach

Dive shop of choice: Blue View Divers

Next up on our trip: Ko Lanta

My Thailand Vacation: Railay Beach

For those of you who didn't read the previous post, this was our first stop after 30 hours of traveling from San Francisco to Bangkok to Krabi. Then, after a 45-minute cab ride to Ao Nang and a 15-minute long tail boat ride, we finally made it to the remote beach known as Railay Beach West! It was a long journey, and after taking a cold shower because I too tired to figure out that there was actually hot water if I’d merely turned a switch, I passed out into the deepest sleep I’d had in months.

We woke up early, walked out of our hotel, looked around at the empty beach and thought, holy s**t. What we discovered that morning was something out of a dream – crystal clear water, a white sand beach, and lush, towering, completely dramatic limestone cliffs that looked almost unreal. 

We were giddy with anticipation and took off to explore our new surroundings. We walked for about ten minutes on a dirt path to Railay East, through some very third-world looking “neighborhoods” where locals were hanging wet clothes on clothes lines, kicking around soccer balls with their friends, and generally looking very happy despite what we wrote off as horrible conditions. 

Railay Beach East was an interesting contrast to Railay West. It didn’t have a beach, although it was right on the water. It had this muddy, clay like lagoon area rather than a beach, and there was a little strip of bars, restaurants, resorts and shops. And like all the reviews had said, it kind of smelled like sewage. Despite all that, it was only a ten minute walk to Railay West, so many backpackers choose to stay there as it’s significantly less expensive. Plus, the beach wasn’t the main attraction in Railay, despite it’s beauty. Railay is one of the top rock climbing regions in the world and attracts people from all over.

We ended up going back to Railay East a few times during our stay to check out the restaurants and bars which were much more lively than in Railey West. The rest of the time we basically did nothing, and it was fantastic. 

We did yoga on the beach (who knew I could teach?!), went running to the Phranang Cave along Phranang Bay, which is quite possibly the most beautiful beach I’ve ever seen. We saw monkeys, experienced tropical thunderstorms which we saw as opportunities to watch the rain and take naps, and got dirt cheap Thai massages on the beach under a canopy of trees with the waves crashing in the background. We met some wonderful, like-minded travelers from all over the world, ate delicious Thai food for every meal, and watched gorgeous, water-color-esque sunsets that left me in awe of the simple beauty of this remote paradise. 

This was the perfect place for our first stop in Thailand because we were able to just relax! There was just enough to do, and yet not too much that we felt guilty doing nothing.

Where we stayed: Sand Sea Resort

Favorite Restaurant: The Last Bar, Railay East


Next up on our trip: Ko Phi Phi

My Thailand Vacation

Thailand, in one word: Amazing. 

 

My fiance and I went to Thailand for two weeks in November 2012, and we wished we’d have stayed for two months, at the very least. What we found there during this short vacation was truly inspiring – from the beauty of raw, rugged, nature to the indulgent relaxation found only in remote, desolate environments, to the discovery of a gentle, rich, and devoted culture. Oh, and there’s the flavorful cuisine, the outdoor adventure, the friendly people and their overall sense of happiness that can only come from within.

We started our trip at the southern beaches of the Krabi province: Railay Beach, Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta. We then traded in the beaches for urban life and flew to Chiang Mai, where I fell in love. I honestly came back thinking I must find a reason to move to Chiang Mai, a vibrant little city in Northern Thailand that will always hold a special place in my heart. We spent our last 24 hours in Bangkok which I hardly think is worth mentioning.

Since coming back, friends, family and acquaintances have asked what we thought of Thailand, what we did, where we recommend going, not going, any travel tips, and so many other questions.

To their questions I’ve answered: Thailand was amazing. It was the perfect mix of beaches and culture. Definitely go there. I’m working on a blog post to answer the rest of your questions. :)

I hope this guides you in your journeys to Thailand (and hopefully more of Southeast Asia that we didn’t have time to explore). Please reach out with questions and/or comments as Thailand is currently my favorite conversation topic! 

Our journey started with a flight to Bangkok, then Krabi, and then a cab to Ao Nang where we witnessed our first of many sunsets, and wow, was it magnificent. From there we had to catch a long tail boat to Railay Beach, and since we had just watched the very last bit of the pink clouds turn to gray (my favorite part of every sunset), it was nearly pitch black. This made for an interesting adventure of walking out into thigh-high deep water to get to the 10-person long tail boat that we couldn’t quite see out in the distance. I had visions of slipping and falling in the warm water, letting all my clothes and cameras on my back come down with me. 

We were delirious after 30 hours of traveling, but we (and our luggage) made it to the boat just fine, and we headed out into the pure blackness of the Andaman Sea, sucking in the warm, humid air, as an overwhelming sense of calm took over as we realized we made it: We were in Thailand. On vacation. For two weeks that might be so amazing they would leave permanent footprints on our lives. 

And so our vacation began…

Railay Beach
Ko Phi Phi
Ko Lanta
Chiang Mai