Ah, the beautiful Mykonos! While planning our trip to Greece, I'd heard that Mykonos has some of the most beautiful beaches in Greece, and quite possibly, the world. I'd also heard about its party reputation, and the
fact that it's the most expensive of all the Greek islands, which are
already incredibly expensive (it is Europe, after all). After much
hesitation, my husband and I decided we'd go. And so, after months of
anticipation and five hours sailing across the deepest blue sea I have
ever seen, we arrived at the new port in Mykonos. Wow, was it
beautiful.
As soon as we checked in at the
PortoBello Hotel at the
outskirts of Mykonos City, I knew we made the right decision about staying on
this island. The hotel was just beautiful – a small hotel with maybe 20 rooms,
overlooking the entire city and the Mediterranean sea. The view was majestic. This was the best hotel of our entire trip –
from the location to the service to the value - and I can’t recommend it
enough!
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| Views from the PortoBello Hotel, Mykonos City |
We settled in and then went for a 2-mile walk to
Ornos
Beach. The streets aren’t made for walking – not really any sidewalks or bike
lanes – so it was interesting! The beach was dotted with umbrellas and chaise
lounges for purchase, or for free if you ate/drank at one of the beach-lined
restaurants or bars. We had a mediocre meze platter, but decided it was worth
it to sit at a table in the sand. We took the bus back to our hotel to avoid
walking alongside cars and motor scooters, which actually gave us a nice little
tour of Ornos Bay. The scenery is just incredible there – white-washed
buildings against a deep, blue sea. Just like I’d imagined!
We got back to our hotel and then left shortly after to go
for a run. This time we went a different way to Ornos Bay – the more scenic
way. It was beautiful! It took about five minutes to get through town, to the
path along the water, and then it winded along, up and down, past tiny beaches
and into Ornos Bay where there were kite boarders and wind surfers out and
about. It was one of the most beautiful runs I’ve ever been on, but unfortunately I didn't bring my camera!
We got back
just in time for sunset. I still can’t believe the view from the hotel patio –
they could charge money to let people sit there for the view! I
know Santorini is famous for its sunsets, but the sunset view from the hotel
patio rivals those in Santorini.
What is it about sunsets? They inevitably
draw me in, with their water color-like colors dripping one into the next, the
slow shift as the entire sky transitions from blue to orange to pink. The glittering
buildings basking in the sun shine. Sunsets have a way of demanding all my
attention at once, so that I can’t possibly think of anything except the beauty
of what’s before me. It’s blissfully calming to be so aware, so present, so
lost in the moment of something so simple and so beautiful.
We had some
Greek wine and grapes, and watched the sun dip down behind a small island in the
distance, and watched the white-washed buildings of Mykonos City fade away as
the lights turned on and the partiers came out. Finally, when I accepted that the sunset was over and it was officially night time, we took the steps from our hotel into the city and wandered
around the tiny pedestrian streets, in search of a delicious Greek dinner. After dinner we got lost in the little streets,
wandering through Little Venice, along the waterfront, stopping for gelato and
then making our way back up the stairs to our lovely hotel. Not a bad day.
The next morning we found ourselves falling in love with our
hotel even more, as we discovered the mouth-watering breakfast buffet. I would
stay there again just to eat there! We loaded our plates with creamy, Greek
cheeses, fresh olives, cucumbers, and tomatoes. Greek yogurt and juicy plums,
peaches and grapes. Pastries, tea, and spanikopita. We sat on the same patio
where we’d watched the sunset, this time looking in awe out over Mykonos City
down below, the deepest blue sea, and a crystal clear blue sky. Were we in heaven??
After indulging in one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had,
I set out on a walking photography tour by myself. I slowly made my way through
Mykonos town, marveling at the simple beauty of the stark white buildings with
brightly colored doors. Eventually I ended up at the water, passing by some
small, Greek Orthodox churches, again with that stark white exterior and bright
blue domed top. They are just so beautiful.
Finally I made it to the famed
windmills at the edge of Mykonos town. They are these old windmills, making you
feel as if you’ve gone back in time.
I continued my walking tour, passing through Little Venice, more churches, and cute cobblestone streets.
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| Little Venice |
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| Meandering through town |
I escaped the waterfront just as the cruise visitors started to pour
in. There were three cruises in port that day and the tiny town filled up very
fast.
Luckily for us, we rented a car and took off to the more remote
beaches at the eastern side of the
island, including those surrounding Kalafatis Bay.
Through my research, it seemed we didn’t need a car to get to the
beaches, but it also seemed that the bus-accessible beaches - Ornos, Psarou, Platys Gialos - were busy, and we
wanted to check out somewhere off the beaten path. This was one of my favorite
parts of the trip, so I’m glad we took the effort to drive a bit. Although,
driving was rather interesting as the street signs are either in Greek or
non-existent.
The first beach we checked out at Kalafatis was, of course, stunning.
Crystal clear water bleeding into the deep, blue sea, glistening in the sun
light below white-washed, 2-story houses on the rolling hills above. The
water temperature felt like that in Lake Tahoe, but it was saltier than any
ocean I’d been in, and I could actually float! This is quite unusual for me, so
it was very exciting. We sun
bathed, strolled the beach, swam briefly in the chilly, salty water, and did some beach gymnastics ;)
We went to another beach just north of the first one, which
was even more secluded with fewer people, and just as beautiful. There were even
some goats roaming across the street.
Then, out of part obligation and part
curiosity, we found ourselves at
Paradise Beach, the ultimate party beach on
the island. As expected, it was beautiful, in a small bay surrounded by – you
guessed it – white-washed houses built up the hills overlooking the bay. There
were two large bars/clubs on the beach, and beautiful, tanned tourists
drinking, dancing and enjoying life. We saw some naked guys, topless girls, and
even some kids (wtf?!?).
After our beach tour, it was back to our hotel to watch
another amazing sunset. Just amazing.
At last, the last bit of pink faded into gray, and we were
off to dinner yet again. This time we found ourselves eating fava bean dip
(like hummus), thick, crunchy bread, Greek style salad with fresh cucumbers,
tomatoes, bell peppers and feta cheese, and lamb and pork marinated in some
lemony, creamy, herb-soaked goodness. We wandered through the streets again,
window shopping, stopping to take pictures of more brightly colored doors
against a white backdrop of a building, and walked along the waterfront again
until our bed called. It was our last night in Mykonos – another short trip –
but well worth it.
The next morning we ran along the water one last time, out
to Ornos Bay and back. We had another extraordinary breakfast, and then drove
out to
Platos Gialos beach for a
quick visit. It was dotted with umbrellas and beach chairs for rent, so much so
that you couldn’t even see the beach. There were hotels and restaurants not 100
feet from the ocean, and peddlers selling sunglasses and knock-off hand bags. We
didn’t stay for long, and appreciated the previous day’s trip to the
north-eastern beaches a little more. Apparently I didn't even take a single picture here!
We had an amazing time in Mykonos, but luckily we had more to look forward to! Finally it was time to drive out to the new port to return our car and hop on a ferry to Santorini!
Previously:
Athens
Next up:
Santorini
